Culture & Etiquette

The Bonjour rule

If you remember one thing from this page, make it this: say "Bonjour" first. Into a shop, up to a counter, before asking a stranger for directions, when you get on a bus and when you meet the person at the hotel desk. In the evening, switch to "Bonsoir." Add "Madame" or "Monsieur" and you're being properly polite. When you leave a shop, say "Merci, au revoir" or "Bonne journée."

To a French person, launching straight into a question without a greeting is like walking into someone's house without knocking. It treats the other person as a service rather than a human being. A lot of the "rude French waiter" stories Americans tell start with a missed Bonjour. Say it, and you'll be surprised how much warmer people get.

Even if you speak no French, try a few words before switching to English: "Bonjour, excusez-moi, parlez-vous anglais ?" Most people under 50 speak some English, and they'll usually switch once you've made the gesture. Our French phrases page has pronunciation for all of this.

Greetings, la bise, and vous vs tu

Handshakes and la bise

In business and with people you've just met, a handshake is standard. It's short and firm, with none of the pumping Americans sometimes do. La bise, the cheek kiss, is for friends, family, and friends of friends at social occasions. It's a light touch of cheeks with a small kiss sound in the air.

The number of kisses depends on the region: two in Paris and most of France, three in parts of the south, four in parts of the north and center, and sometimes just one in western Brittany. When in doubt, let the French person lead and follow. Most people start by leaning to their left. As a visitor, nobody expects you to initiate the bise, and you can offer a hand instead; that's fine.

Vous and tu

French has two words for "you." Vous is formal, used with strangers, older people, shopkeepers, waiters, hotel staff and anyone in a professional role. Tu is for friends, family, children and, increasingly, young people among themselves. Use vous unless someone invites you to switch ("On peut se tutoyer"). Using tu with a stranger sounds disrespectful or presumptuous.

Madame, Monsieur and names

"Madame" works for any adult woman, whatever her age or marital status. "Mademoiselle" has largely fallen out of use and was dropped from official forms in 2012. First names come more slowly than in the US: your hotel manager or landlord may stay "Madame Dupont" all week, and that's normal.

Volume, dress and behavior in public

Keep it down

The most common complaint French people have about American tourists is noise. Restaurants, trains and the Métro are quieter than in the US, and voices that sound normal at home carry far here. Talk at the volume you'd use in a library on public transport, take phone calls quietly (or not at all) on trains, and use headphones. On trains, step into the vestibule between cars to make a call.

Other public habits

• Smiling at strangers isn't standard. A big smile at someone you don't know can seem odd or flirty. That isn't coldness; it's that smiles are saved for people you know.
• "How are you?" is a real question in France, not a greeting. Ask a cashier "Ça va ?" and they may wonder why.
• Eating on the go is more accepted than it used to be (a baguette tip on the way home, a sandwich in the park), but full meals on the Métro or while walking still draw looks.
• Personal space on public transport is tight. On escalators, stand on the right and walk on the left. On the Métro, fold up the flip seats (strapontins) when it gets crowded, and let people off before you get on.
• Feet on seats is a no on trains and the Métro.

What to wear

The French dress a notch up from Americans for everyday life, especially in cities, but the rules have relaxed. Clean, simple sneakers are everywhere in Paris now, including in nice restaurants. What stands out are gym clothes, athletic shorts, flip-flops away from the beach, baseball caps indoors and big logos. Dark, neutral, well-fitting clothes blend in anywhere.

• Restaurants: smart casual works almost everywhere. At top restaurants, men won't need a tie, but a jacket won't look out of place, and shorts will.
• Shorts: fine in summer in the south, at the beach and for sightseeing. In cities, adult men in shorts mark themselves as tourists, which is fine, but you'll see few locals doing it except in heat waves.
• Churches and religious sites: cover shoulders and avoid very short shorts or skirts. Men should take off hats. A light scarf in your bag solves this in summer.
• Swimwear in town: many beach resorts ban walking around town in swimwear or shirtless by local order, with fines. Cover up when you leave the beach.

For what to pack, see our packing list.

Shops, markets and queues

Shopping politely

1. Say "Bonjour" as you walk in, to whoever is behind the counter.
2. In small boutiques, ask before handling things that are folded or displayed: "Je peux regarder ?" Browsing freely is fine in department stores and chains.
3. Don't touch produce at markets, bakeries or greengrocers unless it's clearly self-serve. Point and the vendor will choose.
4. If you're just looking, say so: "Je regarde, merci."
5. Say "Merci, au revoir" when you leave, even if you bought nothing.

Stores don't give out free single-use plastic bags, so carry a foldable tote. In supermarkets, you bag your own groceries, and quickly. Paying with exact change or small notes is appreciated at small shops, and some have card minimums. Sales (les soldes) happen twice a year, in winter starting in January and in summer starting in late June, on dates set nationally. See Paris shopping and VAT refunds and US customs.

Queues

The French queue in bakeries, pharmacies, post offices and museum lines, and people notice who came first. In crowds (boarding a bus, at an airport gate, at a busy bar), lines get looser and some people will edge ahead. If someone cuts in, a calm "Excusez-moi, je crois que j'étais là avant vous" (Excuse me, I think I was here before you) usually works. Pregnant women, people with disabilities and the elderly often have priority at checkouts and on transport, and you'll see signs saying so.

Restaurant culture and tipping

A French meal isn't something to rush, and service is designed around that. Your server won't hover, won't ask if everything's okay every ten minutes, and won't bring the check until you ask, because doing so would mean hurrying you out. Once you have a table, it's yours for the evening. If the service seems slow, it's usually the rhythm. Say "L'addition, s'il vous plaît" when you're ready.

• Wait to be seated in restaurants. In cafés, you can usually pick a table, but tables set with cutlery and napkins at mealtimes are for diners, not for a quick coffee.
• Catch the server's eye and say "S'il vous plaît." Never snap fingers, whistle or call "garçon."
• Keep both hands on the table (wrists resting on the edge), not in your lap.
• Don't cut lettuce with a knife in formal settings; fold it with your fork and knife.
• Big menu modifications aren't usual. Allergies and dietary needs are fine to mention and taken seriously.
• Asking for a doggy bag used to be unusual, but restaurants are now required to provide a container if you ask.

Tipping: service is included by law. Round up at a café, leave a few euros or 5–10% at a restaurant if service was good, and ignore tip prompts on card terminals if you like. Hotel porters and housekeeping get a euro or two per bag or night if you wish; taxi drivers don't expect a tip but you can round up. Full details are on our money page, and everything about menus and ordering is in our food guide.

Sundays, lunch breaks and August

Sundays and Mondays

Sunday is still a day of rest in much of France. Most shops close, except bakeries, markets and many food shops in the morning, and stores in designated tourist zones. In Paris, those tourist zones include the Champs-Élysées, the Marais, Saint-Germain, Montmartre and the big department stores, which open on Sundays. In small towns, Sunday afternoon can feel deserted. Many independent restaurants close Sunday night and Monday, and plenty of small shops close Monday too.

Lunch closures

In Paris and big cities, most shops stay open all day. In small towns and villages, expect shops, pharmacies, post offices, banks and even tourist offices to close for lunch, usually from about noon or 12:30 pm to 2 or 3 pm. Plan your errands for the morning or late afternoon.

Museums

National museums close one day a week, usually Monday or Tuesday. The Louvre closes on Tuesdays, and the Musée d'Orsay and many city museums close on Mondays. Check before you go; see Paris sights.

August

Much of France takes its summer vacation in late July and August. In Paris, many neighborhood restaurants, bakeries and small shops close for two to four weeks, with a sign on the door (fermeture annuelle or congés annuels). Sights, big stores and tourist areas stay open, and the city is quieter. Meanwhile, beaches, the Alps and the south are packed, and highways jam on the big departure weekends, especially around August 15.

Public holidays

France has 11 public holidays: January 1, Easter Monday, May 1, May 8, Ascension Thursday, Whit Monday, July 14, August 15, November 1, November 11 and December 25. Alsace and Moselle add Good Friday and December 26. On most holidays, shops and restaurants in tourist areas stay open, but banks and many businesses close and public transport runs a Sunday schedule. May 1 is the big one: almost everything closes, including many museums. When a holiday falls on a Thursday or Tuesday, many people take the bridge day (faire le pont), so expect crowded trains. See when to go.

Strikes and protests

Strikes (grèves) and demonstrations (manifestations) are part of French life and a constitutional right. They're usually announced in advance, most affect transport, and most protests are peaceful. With a little planning, they rarely ruin a trip.

What gets hit

• Trains: SNCF strikes can cancel a share of TGV, Intercités and regional trains. In Paris, RATP strikes affect the Métro, RER and buses, though automated lines (such as Métro lines 1, 4 and 14) usually keep running.
• Flights: air traffic controller strikes cancel or delay flights, especially short-haul ones. Transatlantic flights are cancelled less often but can be delayed.
• Sights: museums and monuments occasionally open late or close because of staff strikes.
• Other: refinery strikes can cause fuel shortages, and garbage collectors' strikes can leave trash on the streets.

How to check and what your rights are

1. Watch the news for "préavis de grève" (strike notice) and the dates. Public transport unions must file notice in advance, and staff must declare whether they'll strike 48 hours beforehand, so operators can publish a forecast service plan the day before.
2. Check the SNCF Connect app for trains, and the RATP site or Bonjour RATP app for Paris transport. SNCF usually contacts ticket holders if a train is cancelled.
3. If your train is cancelled, SNCF lets you exchange or refund the ticket free. If your flight is cancelled, EU rules require the airline to rebook or refund you and provide meals and a hotel if needed. Compensation depends on the cause: air traffic control strikes usually don't qualify, while strikes by the airline's own staff often do.
4. Have a backup: a later train, a bus (FlixBus, BlaBlaCar Bus), a rental car or a rideshare. Travel insurance that covers strikes helps.

Smoking, dogs, toilets and pharmacies

Smoking

Smoking is banned indoors in public places, including all bars and restaurants, but allowed on open terraces, which is why outdoor tables can be smoky. Since June 2025, it's also banned on beaches during the swimming season, in public parks and gardens, at bus shelters and near schools and sports facilities, with a €135 fine (about $150). Vaping is banned on public transport and in many indoor spaces. See our food guide for more.

Dogs everywhere

Dogs are welcome in far more places than in the US: on café terraces, inside many restaurants, in shops, on trains (small dogs in a bag travel for a small fee; larger dogs need a ticket and a muzzle), and on the Paris Métro in a bag. Food shops generally don't allow them. Not every owner picks up after their dog, so watch the sidewalk. If you're bringing your own pet, see traveling with pets.

Public toilets

Paris has hundreds of free self-cleaning street toilets (sanisettes), plus free toilets in parks, museums and department stores. In cafés, toilets are for customers; buying a coffee at the counter is the polite way in. Train stations and some tourist sites have paid toilets, usually about €1 (about $1.10), so keep coins. A few tips:

• Ask "Où sont les toilettes ?" Use the word toilettes or WC; "bathroom" (salle de bain) means the room with the bath.
• Café toilets are often downstairs, and the light may be on a timer or motion sensor.
• In older places, you may still find a squat toilet or a toilet with no seat.
• Toilets marked Dames and Hommes (or Messieurs) are for women and men.

Pharmacies

Look for the green cross. French pharmacists are highly trained and give advice for minor problems, so they're often your first stop before a doctor. Many medicines Americans buy at a supermarket, including ibuprofen and acetaminophen (sold as paracétamol, brand Doliprane or Dafalgan), are only sold in pharmacies, often from behind the counter. Bring prescription medication in original containers with a copy of your prescription using the generic name.

At night and on Sundays, a rotating on-duty pharmacy (pharmacie de garde) stays open; the address is posted on the door of every pharmacy, and the 3237 service (by phone or at 3237.fr) can direct you to the nearest one. For emergencies, call 15 or 112. See safety and health.

Photography and image rights

France takes privacy seriously. Under French law, people have a right to control their own image (droit à l'image). Photographing street scenes, crowds and public events is fine, but if a person is the clear subject of your photo, ask before taking it, and especially before posting it. Never photograph children who aren't yours without asking a parent. Market vendors and street performers often say yes if you ask, and sometimes appreciate a purchase or a coin.

• Museums: most allow photos without flash for personal use in permanent collections. Temporary exhibitions often ban photography. Selfie sticks and tripods are banned in many museums and monuments.
• The Eiffel Tower at night: the light show is protected by copyright. Personal photos and social posts are fine; commercial use needs permission.
• Police and security: filming police in public is legal, but don't film military sites, prisons or security checkpoints. Avoid photographing people at protests up close.
• Drones: heavily regulated and banned over Paris and many sites. Don't fly one without checking the rules on the official Géoportail drone map.
• Churches: photos are usually allowed outside services. Never during Mass, weddings or funerals.

Conversation, and how the French see Americans

Topics

French conversation is a sport. People enjoy debate, disagreement and strong opinions, and they're less afraid of awkward silences or blunt answers than Americans. A dinner where everyone argues about politics and leaves friends is a good dinner.

• Good topics: food and wine (a safe bet anywhere), travel, the region you're in, books, film, history, architecture, sports (rugby and soccer especially), and what they recommend you see.
• Go slowly with: money and salaries (considered private), "So what do you do?" as an opener (Americans define people by their jobs more than the French do), religion, and personal questions to people you just met.
• US politics: people may ask your views, sometimes bluntly. You don't have to answer; a calm "C'est compliqué" and a smile work. If you do engage, expect debate and avoid lecturing.
• Compliments: the French tend to deflect them rather than say "thank you." Effusive praise ("amazing," "awesome") can sound over the top; a sincere "C'était délicieux" lands better than superlatives.

Things Americans do that seem rude here

• Skipping "Bonjour" and going straight to the question.
• Speaking loudly in restaurants, trains and the Métro.
• Asking for many changes to a dish, or asking for the check before you've finished.
• Using first names or tu too soon.
• Asking strangers personal questions, or about money.
• Waving or shouting to get a server's attention.
• Starting to eat before everyone is served, or before the host says "Bon appétit."
• Assuming everyone speaks English without asking first.
• Wearing a hat indoors, especially in a church or at a dinner table.

How the French tend to see Americans

In general, warmly. Many French people love American films, music and road trips, and the Normandy landings still matter deeply, especially in the north (see our American heritage trail). The common clichés are that Americans are friendly, enthusiastic, generous, loud and a bit naive; that they talk about work and money a lot; and that their friendliness can feel superficial. French reserve is the mirror image: it can feel cold at first, but relationships here build slowly and tend to be deep. Make the effort with some French, keep your voice down, and you'll find most people helpful.

Laïcité and religious sites

Laïcité is the French idea of secularism, set in law since 1905: the state is strictly neutral on religion, and religion is treated as a private matter. In practice, people rarely discuss their faith, and public employees and public school students can't wear conspicuous religious symbols at work or school. Visitors aren't affected by those rules. One law does apply to everyone, including tourists: covering your face in public spaces (with a niqab or burqa, for example) is banned, with a fine of up to €150 (about $170).

Churches, cathedrals, synagogues and mosques are open to respectful visitors. Most churches are free to enter, including Notre-Dame de Paris, which reopened in December 2024. Check the cathedral's official site for current hours and whether a free timed reservation can save you the line. Keep these points in mind:

• Dress modestly: shoulders covered, no very short shorts, men remove hats.
• Stay quiet and keep your phone on silent.
• Avoid sightseeing during Mass or services; many churches post times at the door.
• Mosques usually ask women to cover their hair and everyone to remove shoes. The Grande Mosquée de Paris welcomes visitors outside prayer times.
• Synagogues often have security checks; bring ID and expect to be asked why you're visiting.
• Lighting a candle usually costs a small donation, paid in the box beside it.

Pools and beaches

Public swimming pools

French public pools (piscines municipales) have hygiene rules that surprise almost every American:

• Men must wear tight swim briefs or tight boxer-style trunks. Loose board shorts are banned at almost all public pools, on the grounds that they can be worn as street clothes. Many pools sell cheap trunks from a vending machine at the entrance.
• Swim caps (bonnet de bain) are required at many pools, for everyone. Bring one or buy one at the entrance.
• Shower first. You'll walk through a footbath and showers before the pool deck. Shoes stay in the changing area.
• Changing rooms are often mixed, with individual cubicles. Lockers usually take a €1 coin or a token.
• Rules on full-body swimsuits such as burkinis vary by town; check with the pool.

Hotel pools, campground pools and water parks set their own rules. Many campgrounds also ban board shorts; hotels usually don't.

Beaches

Topless sunbathing is legal on most French beaches and still accepted, though it's much less common than it was a few decades ago, and fewer younger women do it. Some towns ban it by local order, and it's frowned on at family beaches. Full nudity is only for designated naturist beaches (plages naturistes), which are well marked.

• Swim at supervised beaches (plages surveillées) in summer. The flags: green means swimming is supervised and safe, yellow or orange means it's risky, red means no swimming, and purple warns of pollution or dangerous marine life like jellyfish. Swim between the flags marking the supervised zone.
• Atlantic beaches have strong currents and big waves; take the flags seriously.
• Smoking is banned on beaches during the swimming season.
• Many Riviera beaches are private beach clubs (plages privées) that rent loungers; public sections are free.

See beaches and outdoors and the Riviera.

Hotels, homes and customer service

Hotel and bathroom quirks

• Floors: the ground floor is the rez-de-chaussée (RDC or 0 in the elevator). The French premier étage is the American second floor.
• Elevators in older buildings can be tiny, sometimes big enough for one person and a suitcase. Send the bags up first.
• Doors: Poussez means push, tirez means pull. Apartment buildings often have an entry code (digicode) and a button marked porte to get out. Hold doors for the person behind you.
• Hallway lights are often on timers (minuterie). Press the glowing button to turn them on.
• Beds: a "double" may be two twins pushed together, and a standard French double is often narrower than a US queen. Ask for a lit queen size or king size if it matters.
• Bathrooms: the toilet is often in a separate small room (the WC). You'll find bidets in older bathrooms, half-glass shower screens, handheld showers and, in budget hotels, no washcloths.
• Air conditioning isn't standard in older or cheaper hotels, even in Paris, where summer heat waves are now common. Check before you book for July or August.
• Tourist tax (taxe de séjour) is charged per person per night and often added at checkout.

For more, see where to stay.

Invited to a French home

1. Arrive about 10–15 minutes after the time given. Never early: your hosts will still be getting ready.
2. Bring a gift: flowers (avoid chrysanthemums, which are for graves, and red roses, which mean romance), good chocolates, pastries from a nice bakery, or something from home. Wine is fine, but don't expect it to be served; your hosts will have chosen wines for the meal. Better yet, send flowers ahead.
3. Expect an apéritif first, with drinks and nibbles in the living room, and dinner to last several hours.
4. At the table, wait for the host to start or to say "Bon appétit." Keep hands visible on the table, try everything, and take seconds as a compliment. Bread sits on the tablecloth next to your plate.
5. Don't ask for a tour of the house or wander from room to room.
6. Offer to help clear, and accept if they say no.
7. Don't rush off right after dessert; coffee and conversation follow. Send a thank-you message the next day.

Customer service

The American idea that "the customer is always right" doesn't really exist here. Staff see themselves as professionals dealing with you on equal terms, and a polite, patient approach gets much further than complaining loudly. If you hear "Ce n'est pas possible," that's often a starting point. Calmly explain your situation, ask what can be done ("Qu'est-ce qu'on peut faire ?"), and you'll often find a way. Return policies are less generous than in the US, so keep receipts and ask before you buy.

Do and don't: a quick summary