Why go
The Côte d'Azur is a 75-mile (120 km) stretch of Mediterranean coast between the Esterel's red cliffs and the Italian border, with mountains dropping almost into the sea. Americans have come for a century, since Gerald and Sara Murphy summered at Antibes and F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote here. The draw is simple: blue water, about 300 days of sun, cliffside villages, great art and an unusually easy-to-use train line along the shore.
It is also crowded and expensive in July and August, and quieter, cheaper and more local the rest of the year. Nice is the natural base: a big, walkable city with an airport 20 minutes away and trains to everything.
Nice
Promenade des Anglais
The 4-mile (7 km) seafront promenade, named for the English who wintered here in the 1800s, with blue chairs facing the Baie des Anges. Walk, bike or roller-skate it, and drop into the Hôtel Negresco for a look. The old city and the port are at its eastern end.
Vieux Nice and Cours Saleya
A maze of ochre-colored lanes, Baroque churches and bakeries. The Cours Saleya flower and food market runs Tuesday to Sunday mornings; on Mondays, the square fills with antiques and flea-market stalls. Eat socca from a stall and shop for olive oil and herbes de Provence.
Castle Hill (Colline du Château)
No castle remains, but the park on top has the best view over the bay, the old town and the port, and a waterfall. Climb the stairs from the end of the Promenade, or take the elevator by the Tour Bellanda.
Matisse and Chagall museums
Matisse lived in Nice for nearly 40 years. The Musée Matisse, in a red Genoese villa in Cimiez, holds works from every period. The Musée National Marc Chagall, below it, was built for his cycle of Biblical paintings. The Matisse museum (€10, about $11; free under 18) is open daily except Tuesday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. from November to March and until 6 p.m. from April to October; a Henri Matisse–Alex Katz show runs October 28, 2026 to January 18, 2027. A €15 four-day pass covers all of Nice's municipal museums, though not the Chagall, which is national and separately ticketed. The Chagall museum is also closed Tuesdays; its hours change by season, so check before you go.
Insider tip
Socca is a thin, crispy chickpea-flour pancake baked in a wood oven, cut into strips and eaten with lots of black pepper. It is best straight out of the oven at old-town counters like Chez Pipo or Chez Thérésa's Cours Saleya stall. A portion is a few euros, and it is not a sit-down dish.
Villefranche, Èze, Monaco, and Menton
Villefranche-sur-Mer
A deep-water bay with pastel houses, a sandy beach next to the station, the Saint-Pierre chapel decorated by Jean Cocteau, and a covered medieval street, the rue Obscure. Cruise ships anchor in the bay and tender passengers to the port.
Èze
A stone village on a peak 1,400 feet (427 m) above the sea, all steps and archways. At the top, the cactus-filled Jardin Exotique has the view (paid entry). The steep Nietzsche Path drops about 1 hour 15 minutes down to Èze-sur-Mer station. Lignes d'Azur bus 82 from Nice climbs to the village; the train only reaches the beach below.
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
A wooded peninsula of grand villas with a coastal footpath around the point. The Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild has pink rooms, nine themed gardens and musical fountains.
Menton
The last town before Italy, with a pastel old town climbing above the harbor, lemon trees, the Jean Cocteau museum and a warm microclimate. Its Lemon Festival (Fête du Citron) fills the town with giant sculptures made of citrus every February; the 2027 edition runs February 13–28, 2027 on the theme "Douce France," with Sunday parades on the seafront and Thursday night parades with fireworks. Buy grandstand seats on fete-du-citron.com.
Monaco: a separate country
Monaco is a sovereign principality of about 0.8 square miles (2 km²), the second-smallest country in the world after the Vatican. There is no border control from France, and it uses the euro, but it has its own police, laws and stamps. It is not in the EU, and many European eSIMs and phone plans that cover France exclude Monaco's network, so check your plan before you go.
Monte-Carlo Casino
The Belle Époque casino by Charles Garnier, architect of the Paris Opéra. Visitors can tour the atrium and public gaming rooms by day for an entry fee; in the evening the gaming rooms are for players aged 18 and up, and you must show a passport or other photo ID. Smart dress is expected after dark: no shorts, sportswear or flip-flops, and jackets are favored in the private rooms. Check current visiting hours and fees on the Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer site before you go. Monaco's own citizens are not allowed to gamble there.
Prince's Palace and the Rock
The old town on its rock above the harbor. The changing of the guard happens daily at 11:55 a.m. in front of the palace; come early for a spot. The State Apartments are open to visitors from spring to fall only; tickets are sold online. Grace Kelly is buried in the cathedral.
Oceanographic Museum
A cliff-top palace of the sea founded by Prince Albert I in 1910, with a big aquarium, a shark lagoon and a rooftop terrace. Jacques Cousteau directed it for 30 years. It is open almost every day of the year, with longer hours in summer; buy tickets on the museum's site to skip the line.
The Monaco Grand Prix is scheduled for June 4–6, 2027. Grandstand tickets run from hundreds to thousands of euros, hotels in Monaco and Nice charge multiples of their normal rates, and the streets are fenced off for weeks of setup. If you want to watch, book a year ahead, ride the train in (it is packed but faster than any road), and bring ear protection. If you do not, avoid Monaco that week entirely. Other races on the same circuit, such as the Formula E event and, in even-numbered years, the Historic Grand Prix, also close streets in spring.
Watch out
Monaco is very steep. Use the free public elevators and escalators that connect its levels, and the city buses. Dress codes are enforced at the casino, upscale restaurants and some hotel bars: no beachwear, shorts or flip-flops away from the beach.
Antibes, Cannes, and the hill towns
Antibes and the Picasso Museum
A walled old town and a harbor of superyachts. Picasso worked in the Château Grimaldi in 1946; it is now the Musée Picasso, overlooking the sea. It is open daily except Monday, with a lunch closure (1–2 p.m.) from mid-September to mid-June and continuous 10 a.m.–6 p.m. hours in summer; entry is €8 (about $9), free under 18. The Provençal market runs most mornings under a covered hall. Walk the Sentier du Littoral around Cap d'Antibes.
Juan-les-Pins
Sandy beaches, pine trees, nightlife, and the Jazz à Juan festival in July, one of Europe's oldest jazz festivals.
Cannes
Home of the film festival. Walk the seafront Boulevard de la Croisette, see the red-carpet steps of the Palais des Festivals (you can stand on them outside festival time), and climb the old Suquet quarter. The Forville market is excellent. The 2027 Cannes Film Festival, the 80th, runs May 11–22, 2027. It is for industry professionals, but the public can watch the red-carpet arrivals from behind barriers, see free evening screenings at the beachfront Cinéma de la Plage, and, if aged 18–28, apply for a "3 Days in Cannes" pass to attend official screenings. Room rates spike that fortnight.
Îles de Lérins
Two islands a short ferry ride offshore, about 15–30 minutes depending on the island. Sainte-Marguerite has pine forests, swimming coves, and the fort where the Man in the Iron Mask was held. Saint-Honorat belongs to Cistercian monks who make wine and liqueurs. Ferries leave from the Cannes port; check the last return time.
Saint-Paul-de-Vence
A walled village of galleries above Nice where Chagall is buried. Just outside, the Fondation Maeght is one of France's best modern art museums, with works by Miró, Giacometti, Chagall and Braque in a garden setting. It is open daily, 10 a.m.–6 p.m. from October to June and 10 a.m.–7 p.m. from July to September; check fondation-maeght.com for current exhibitions and ticket prices. In Vence, a few miles away, Matisse designed the Chapelle du Rosaire, with limited opening hours.
Grasse
The world capital of perfume, where jasmine and May rose are still grown. Fragonard, Molinard and Galimard offer free tours of their workshops or museums, and several run paid workshops where you blend your own scent. The International Perfume Museum explains the history. Grasse is about 30 minutes from Cannes by TER train.
Saint-Tropez, Porquerolles, and the Esterel
Saint-Tropez
A small fishing port turned celebrity resort, with yachts, a citadel, and the Annonciade museum of post-impressionist painting. There is no train. In summer, boats from Nice, Cannes and Sainte-Maxime are the sanest way in; the road jams for hours. The ferry from Sainte-Maxime across the gulf takes about 15–30 minutes, and seasonal boats run from Nice and Cannes, roughly April to October. Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez, a big regatta of classic and modern yachts, fills the port in late September or early October.
Pampelonne and beach clubs
The famous 3-mile (4.5 km) sandy beach outside Saint-Tropez, lined with clubs such as Club 55, Nikki Beach and Bagatelle. Since a state-ordered overhaul in 2019, the clubs operate from demountable structures taken down each winter, and most of the sand must stay open to the public. Sunbeds at the famous clubs often cost over €100 (about $112) per person per day in high season, and a long lunch with rosé can cost as much again. Reserve ahead in July and August. Public sections are free.
Porquerolles
A car-free island that is mostly national park, with white-sand beaches, bike trails and vineyards. Ferries from La Tour Fondue near Hyères take about 20 minutes. Rent bikes near the harbor. The Fondation Carmignac has a contemporary art collection in a villa garden. In summer, the national park limits daily visitor numbers.
The Esterel
Red volcanic rock plunging into blue water. The Corniche d'Or coast road and the train line from Cannes to Saint-Raphaël are both spectacular. Hiking trails into the massif close on high fire-risk days in summer.
Beaches: public vs private
Nice and most of the coast east of it have pebble beaches, not sand. Bring water shoes; the water gets deep quickly, and it is clear. The sandy beaches are mainly west of Antibes: Juan-les-Pins, Cannes, the Esterel coves and Pampelonne.
Most of Nice's beachfront is public and free; in Cannes, more of the Croisette is taken up by private beach clubs that rent sunbeds and umbrellas and serve lunch. On the Nice and Cannes seafront, a summer sunbed for the day usually costs a few tens of euros per person, more for the front row, with prices posted at the entrance and online; Saint-Tropez and Cap d'Antibes are far higher. The public beaches have free showers and lifeguards in summer, but no shade, so bring an umbrella or arrive early. Many clubs take bookings online.
Different from home
Topless sunbathing is legal and still seen on French beaches, though less common than a generation ago. Full nudity is only on designated beaches. On the other hand, wearing a bathing suit away from the beach (in shops, restaurants or the streets of some towns) can earn a fine.
Suggested itineraries
Four days: Nice base, no car
- Day 1
Nice
Cours Saleya market, Vieux Nice, socca for lunch, Castle Hill at sunset, Promenade walk.
- Day 2
Villefranche, Èze and Monaco
Train to Villefranche for the morning, bus up to Èze, and on to Monaco for the palace and Oceanographic Museum. Evening at the Casino square, then train back.
- Day 3
Antibes and Cannes
Picasso Museum and the market in Antibes, a swim at Juan-les-Pins or the Lérins islands, then the Croisette in Cannes.
- Day 4
Saint-Paul-de-Vence and Matisse
Bus to Saint-Paul and the Fondation Maeght, then the Matisse museum in Cimiez on the way back.
Seven days: coast and hills
- Day 1
Nice
Old town and the seafront.
- Day 2
Monaco and Menton
The Rock, the palace and the casino, then lunch and the old town in Menton.
- Day 3
Cap Ferrat and Èze
Villa Ephrussi, the coastal path, and Èze for sunset.
- Day 4
Grasse and Saint-Paul
Rent a car. A perfume workshop in Grasse, then the Fondation Maeght and the village.
- Day 5
Antibes and Cannes
Move to Cannes or Antibes for two nights.
- Day 6
Esterel and Saint-Tropez
Drive the Corniche d'Or, or take the boat to Saint-Tropez. Beach afternoon at Pampelonne.
- Day 7
Lérins or Porquerolles
Island day, then fly out of Nice or continue west into Provence.
Getting there and around
Flights and airport transfers
Nice Côte d'Azur Airport (NCE) is France's third-busiest, with nonstops from the New York area (mostly seasonal) and many European connections. See flights. It is just 4 miles (7 km) west of central Nice.
- Tram line 2 runs from both terminals to the port via the center (Jean Médecin, Garibaldi) in about 25–30 minutes, for the price of a standard city ticket. Buy at the machine before you board. Note that lines 2 and 3 have scheduled maintenance closures from October 25 to December 3, 2026, with replacement buses at times; check lignesdazur.com.
- Train: a TER station at the Grand Arénas transport hub, a short walk or one tram stop from Terminal 1, has trains along the coast, handy for going straight to Cannes, Antibes or Monaco.
- Express buses run from the airport to Monaco and Menton, and to Cannes and Antibes, costing more than city buses.
- Taxis to central Nice charge a regulated fixed fare; confirm it before you get in, and use the official taxi rank.
Coastal trains
The TER line along the coast runs from Saint-Raphaël through Cannes, Antibes, Nice, Villefranche, Èze-sur-Mer and Monaco to Menton and the Italian border at Ventimiglia, roughly every 15–30 minutes at peak times. Nice to Monaco takes about 20 minutes and costs €6.10 (about $7) one way at full fare, with about 65 round trips a day; Nice to Cannes takes about 35 minutes and costs €9.70 (about $11). A regional ZOU day pass, from €20, covers unlimited regional trains in the Sud region for a day. Buy tickets on the SNCF Connect app or at station machines. Trains get very full in summer and during the Monaco Grand Prix. The TGV from Paris takes about 5 hr 40 min to Nice; see trains.
Buses
Nice's city network, Lignes d'Azur, runs trams and buses in Nice and the surrounding towns, including bus 82 up to Èze village and routes to Villefranche and Cap Ferrat. Bus 400 runs from Nice to Saint-Paul-de-Vence and Vence, and buses and trains link Cannes and Nice to Grasse. Single bus fares are low, a few euros or less, and ten-trip and day passes save more; check current prices on lignesdazur.com. Hill-village buses are crowded in summer; get on at the first stop.
Save money
A coastal day of Villefranche, Monaco and Menton by train costs well under €20 (about $22) per person in fares, versus €150 or more for a ship or hotel excursion covering the same ground. Buy the next leg on your phone in the SNCF Connect app as you go.
Car or no car
Skip the car if you are staying on the coast between Cannes and Menton. Parking is expensive, traffic is heavy in summer, and the train is faster. Rent one for a day or two for the hill villages, Grasse, the Esterel or the Gorges du Verdon. For Saint-Tropez, use a boat in summer. See driving in France.
Cruise ports
Big ships call at Villefranche (tendered ashore), Nice (smaller ships at the port), Monaco, Cannes (tendered) and Toulon. From Villefranche, the train station is a short walk up from the port, and Nice and Monaco are each about 10–15 minutes away. Avoid booking a long excursion on a tight tender schedule: the coastal train is cheaper and usually quicker than a ship's tour bus. Local authorities have recently moved to limit the largest cruise ships at Nice, Villefranche and Cannes, so check where your ship will actually anchor or tender.
Where to base yourself
Nice is the best base for most visitors: central for day trips by train, with every type of lodging. Stay near the old town, the port, or the pedestrian streets off Place Masséna; avoid the area right around the main station for noise and petty crime. Antibes or Cannes work well for the western coast and islands. Villefranche or Menton are quieter. Monaco is very expensive.
Budget hotel or apartment
Small hotels and rentals behind the Promenade or in the Port district. Rare under €100 in summer; easier from November to March.
Mid-range hotel
Family-run hotels with balconies; sea views cost more. Ask whether air-conditioning is included.
Seafront grande dame
The Negresco in Nice or the Carlton and Martinez on the Croisette in Cannes.
Hideaway luxury
Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc and the Château de la Chèvre d'Or in Èze are in a class of their own, at €1,000-plus a night in summer.
See where to stay for booking tips.
Food and drink
- Salade niçoise: tomatoes, eggs, olives, anchovies or tuna, raw vegetables. No potatoes or green beans in the Nice version.
- Pan bagnat, a salade niçoise in a round, olive-oil-soaked bun.
- Pissaladière, onion tart with anchovies and olives, and socca.
- Petits farcis (stuffed vegetables), beignets de fleurs de courgette (zucchini flower fritters), and daube with ravioli.
- Tourte de blettes, a sweet chard pie with raisins and pine nuts.
- Wine: Provence rosé, the tiny Bellet appellation in the hills above Nice, and Bandol reds. See French wine.
- Menton lemons, which have their own protected label, and limoncello-style liqueurs.
Restaurant prices on the waterfront are high; walk a few streets inland for better value. See French food.
Seasons and 2026–2027 events
| When | What | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Oct 28, 2026–Jan 18, 2027 | Matisse–Alex Katz exhibition, Musée Matisse, Nice | A good reason to visit in winter |
| Feb 13–28, 2027 | Fête du Citron, Menton | Theme: Douce France |
| Feb 9–28, 2027 | Nice Carnival | Theme: Vive l'Amour; parades and flower battles, overlapping with Menton |
| May 11–22, 2027 | Cannes Film Festival (80th) | Free beach screenings for the public |
| June 4–6, 2027 | Monaco Grand Prix | Book far ahead or avoid |
| July 2027 | Jazz à Juan, Antibes Juan-les-Pins; Nice Jazz Festival | Outdoor concerts |
| Late Sept–early Oct 2027 | Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez | Classic yacht regatta |
August is the worst month to visit: French and Italian families on vacation, jammed roads, full trains and peak prices. May, June and September offer warm sea water with fewer people. Winter is mild, around 55°F (13°C) by day, sunny and calm; the beaches empty, but museums, markets and restaurants stay open, and hotel prices fall sharply. See when to go.
Tips for Americans
- Pickpockets work the Nice–Monaco train, the Promenade and the Cours Saleya. Keep phones off café tables.
- Many beach clubs and popular restaurants require reservations in July and August, especially for lunch.
- Sunday is quieter: some shops close, but markets and restaurants are open on the coast.
- Italy is minutes from Menton. Ventimiglia's huge Friday market is a popular day trip by train.
- Tipping is not expected beyond rounding up; service is included. See money.
- Bring water shoes for pebbles, reef-safe sunscreen and a light sweater for evenings in spring and fall.
Combine the Riviera with Provence to the west, Corsica by ferry from Nice, or the southern Alps inland. For beaches and hiking elsewhere, see outdoors; the regions hub has the full map.
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