November is one of the best-value months to see France, as long as you come for cities, food and wine rather than beaches or mountains. Flights and Paris hotels are near their yearly low, museums are calm, and the food calendar peaks with the Hospices de Beaune auction on November 15 and Beaujolais Nouveau on Thursday, November 19, 2026. The price is gray, damp weather, about nine hours of daylight, and a country between seasons: beach towns and ski resorts are mostly shut until December.
November 2026 also has two things to plan around. A national strike is called for Thursday, November 5, with all four main rail unions taking part, and the Christmas season starts early, with Paris markets opening from November 12 and the Champs-Élysées lights switched on November 22. For the year at a glance, see when to go; for the months that follow, see France in December and France in January.
Weather by region
November is the month the weather turns: early in the month can feel like October, and by the end you'll want a proper coat. Rain usually comes as drizzle or short showers, except on the Atlantic coast, where fronts roll in one after another.
| Place | Average high | Average low | Rainy days | What it feels like |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Paris | 52°F (11°C) | 43°F (6°C) | 10 | Gray, damp, good café weather |
| Strasbourg (Alsace) | 49°F (9°C) | 38°F (3°C) | 9 | Colder; frost and the odd early snow by late month |
| Lyon | 53°F (11°C) | 41°F (5°C) | 9 | Fog in the river valleys some mornings |
| Bordeaux | 57°F (14°C) | 44°F (7°C) | 13 | Mild but the wettest of the big cities |
| Nice (Riviera) | 63°F (17°C) | 50°F (10°C) | 8 to 9 | Sunny spells, but November brings heavy downpours |
| Chamonix (Alps) | 45°F (7°C) | 28°F (−2°C) | 10 | Snow on the peaks, often rain or slush in the valley |
Figures are 1991–2020 averages (Chamonix 1981–2010); rainy days have at least 0.04 inch (1 mm). The Mediterranean coast is warmest, but autumn is also its storm season, when a single day can drop a month's rain. Météo-France posts color-coded weather warnings; an orange alert for rain or wind is a good reason to change a driving day.
Different from home
Paris is farther north than Seattle, so November days are short. The sun rises around 8 a.m. and sets around 5:10 p.m. in mid-November, and it gets darker as the month goes on. Put outdoor sights and photo stops in the morning and early afternoon, and save museums and long dinners for the evening.
What's on in November 2026
| Date | Event | Where |
|---|---|---|
| Oct 31–Nov 8 | Rolex Paris Masters tennis | Paris La Défense Arena, Nanterre |
| Thu Nov 5 | National cross-sector strike, including rail | Nationwide |
| Wed Nov 11 | Armistice Day ceremonies | Arc de Triomphe and every town war memorial |
| From Nov 12 | La Défense Christmas market opens | Paris La Défense |
| Nov 12–15 | Paris Photo art fair | Grand Palais, Paris |
| Nov 13–15 | Hospices de Beaune auction weekend (auction Sunday, Nov 15) | Beaune, Burgundy |
| Nov 14–Jan 3 | Tuileries Christmas market; Grand Noël at Vaux-le-Vicomte | Paris; Seine-et-Marne |
| Thu Nov 19 | Beaujolais Nouveau release, 12:01 a.m. | Nationwide; the party is in Lyon and Beaujeu |
| Sat Nov 21 | Val Thorens opens for skiing | Savoie, Alps |
| Sun Nov 22 | Champs-Élysées Christmas lights switched on, 7:30 p.m. | Paris |
| Nov 22–Jan 4 | Champs-Élysées Christmas market | Paris |
| Nov 23–Dec 29 | Colmar Christmas markets | Alsace |
| Thu Nov 26 | US Thanksgiving; Notre-Dame Christmas market opens (to Dec 27) | Paris |
| Fri Nov 27 | Strasbourg Christkindelsmärik opens (to Dec 24); Riquewihr, Eguisheim and Kaysersberg markets open | Alsace |
Armistice Day (Wednesday, November 11)
The end of World War I is a public holiday and a serious one. In Paris, the president lays a wreath at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the Arc de Triomphe in the morning, and the top of the Champs-Élysées closes to traffic. Every village holds a short service at its war memorial. The American cemeteries usually hold their own Veterans Day ceremonies; check the ABMC site. See American heritage and Alsace & Lorraine.
Hospices de Beaune (November 13–15)
The 166th charity wine auction takes place on Sunday, November 15, under Beaune's covered market hall. The bidding is for professionals, but the whole weekend is a street party, with cellar open houses, tastings and a vineyard road race. Hotels in Beaune fill months ahead; Dijon is 20 minutes away by regional train. See Burgundy.
Beaujolais Nouveau (Thursday, November 19)
By law, the new Beaujolais goes on sale on the third Thursday of November. It's light, fruity and meant to be drunk young. Lyon's bars stay open late on Wednesday night for the 12:01 a.m. release, and the town of Beaujeu holds its Sarmentelles festival around the date, with a torchlit parade. Spend the rest of your time on the ten Beaujolais crus (village appellations) such as Morgon and Fleurie, which are far better wines. See Lyon and wine.
The first Christmas lights and markets
Paris starts its season earlier than most Americans expect. The La Défense market opens from November 12, the Tuileries market on November 14, and the Champs-Élysées lights go on at 7:30 p.m. on Sunday, November 22, then stay lit until midnight every night into early January. Alsace follows: Colmar's markets open November 23 and Strasbourg's November 27. The last week of November is a sweet spot, with markets open and prices still below December's.
Also on: the Grand Palais's "Cézanne and Us" show (to January 17, 2027), and France's November rugby tests against touring teams, sold only through the French federation's official ticketing. See festivals and sports.
Harvest's end, truffles and the new wine
By November the grape harvest (les vendanges) is over almost everywhere. Small growers who turn visitors away in September have time to talk again. Book tastings a few days ahead, since many family estates take appointments only. The vineyards of Burgundy, Champagne and Alsace keep their gold and rust colors into the first week or two of the month.
- Truffles: the Burgundy truffle, a milder autumn variety, is in season, and the black Périgord truffle season gets going toward December, with markets in Provence and the Lot running into March. See Dordogne and Provence.
- Bistro menus turn to game, wild mushrooms, oysters and the seasonal Mont d'Or cheese, baked whole in its spruce box. See French food.
Holidays and closures
Public holidays
- All Saints' Day (Toussaint), Sunday, November 1. Families visit cemeteries with chrysanthemums. Because it falls on a Sunday, there's no extra day off. The fall school holiday ends that weekend, and classes restart Monday, November 2, so trains and highways back to the cities are busy on October 31 and November 1.
- Armistice Day, Wednesday, November 11. Banks, post offices and many small shops close; big museums and most tourist-area shops and restaurants stay open. Transit runs a Sunday-style schedule. In midweek, it makes no long weekend.
Seasonal closures
- Giverny: Monet's house and gardens closed on November 1 and reopen around April 1. There is no way in until spring. See day trips.
- Chamonix lifts: the Aiguille du Midi cable car closes for maintenance from November 2, 2026 until its winter reopening, planned for December 19, and the Montenvers train to the Mer de Glace stops from early November to early December. See Alps.
- Ski resorts: most hotels, restaurants and lifts are shut until early or mid-December. Val Thorens is the exception, from November 21; the full 3 Vallées area opens December 5.
- Beaches and islands: most Riviera beach clubs are dismantled for the winter, and many hotels and restaurants on Corsica, the Brittany islands and Atlantic resorts close from November to spring. Ferries run reduced winter timetables.
- Roads and small sights: high Alpine passes such as the Galibier are closed for the winter, and some seasonal sites shut in early November (Pech Merle's season ended November 1). Big Loire châteaux stay open on shorter hours.
Watch out
Small countryside restaurants and hotels often take their annual break (fermeture annuelle) in November, especially in the Dordogne, Provence and the mountains. Before you drive somewhere for dinner, check the restaurant's own site or Google listing for the current week.
Crowds and prices
Once French families go home on November 1, crowds fall sharply. Paris museums still have lines at opening, but the Louvre, Orsay and Versailles are far calmer than in spring or summer, and you can often book Eiffel Tower slots a few days out. See Paris sights.
- Flights: November is one of the cheapest months to fly to Paris, apart from the days around Thanksgiving (Thursday, November 26). Leave the weekend before or after it if your dates are flexible. Some seasonal routes have ended: American's Chicago–Paris flight runs only through November 30, and its Charlotte service is paused until March. See flights.
- Paris hotels: rates are near their low, except during big trade fairs. The last week of November gets busier with Christmas shoppers.
- What sells out: Beaune for the auction weekend, Strasbourg hotels for the first market weekend (November 27–29), Lyon for the Fête des Lumières in early December, and ski-resort lodging for Christmas, which people are booking now.
Save money
Early-booked TGV seats are cheapest in November, when demand is low. A Carte Avantage rail card costs €49 (about $55) a year and takes about 30 percent off TGV INOUI and Intercités fares; it pays for itself in two or three long trips. See trains.
Where to go this month, and where to skip
Go: Paris
Low crowds, galleries and, from mid-month, the first Christmas markets and lights. Rain matters less in a city of museums and cafés. See Paris.
Go: Burgundy, Beaujolais and Lyon
The Beaune auction, then Beaujolais Nouveau and long lunches in a Lyon bouchon (traditional bistro). Base yourself in Dijon or Lyon.
Go: the Riviera, with low expectations for the beach
Nice, Menton and Antibes are quiet and cheaper, with museums and markets open. Expect some heavy rain days. See Côte d'Azur.
Go late: Alsace
Quiet until the markets open on November 23 (Colmar) and 27 (Strasbourg). Go on weekdays.
Skip: beaches, Corsica and the mountains
Beach towns are shuttered, the sea is cold, and Alpine resorts are closed until December. Chamonix and Annecy stay open as towns, but the big lifts are down.
What to pack
- A warm, waterproof jacket with a hood, or a wool coat plus a compact umbrella.
- Comfortable waterproof shoes or boots for wet cobblestones.
- Layers: a sweater or fleece, plus a scarf, which is what the French wear.
- Gloves and a hat for Alsace and the east late in the month.
- A small flashlight or phone light for walking back from dinner on dark country lanes.
Our packing list has the full checklist and plug adapters.
A sample week: Paris, Burgundy and Beaujolais Nouveau
Friday, November 13 to Thursday, November 19, 2026, timed for the auction and the Nouveau.
- Day 1
Fri Nov 13 · Paris
Arrive at CDG, take the RER B or a flat-fare taxi in, and stay awake with a walk through the Marais.
- Day 2
Sat Nov 14 · Paris
Louvre at opening with a timed ticket, then Paris Photo or the Tuileries Christmas market on its opening day.
- Day 3
Sun Nov 15 · Beaune
Early TGV to Dijon (about 1 hr 40 min), regional train to Beaune for the auction-day street party and cellar open houses. Sleep in Dijon if Beaune is full.
- Day 4
Mon Nov 16 · Côte de Nuits
A small-group wine tour or a rental car along the Route des Grands Crus. Book tastings ahead; Monday closures are common.
- Day 5
Tue Nov 17 · Lyon
Train to Lyon (about 2 hours from Dijon). Old Lyon's traboules (hidden passageways) and a bouchon dinner.
- Day 6
Wed Nov 18 · Lyon
Les Halles Paul Bocuse food hall, the Fourvière basilica, then the late-night countdown to the Nouveau release in a Lyon wine bar.
- Day 7
Thu Nov 19 · Beaujolais
A day in the Beaujolais villages, or the Sarmentelles in Beaujeu. Fly home from Lyon or take the TGV back to CDG (about 2 hours).
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Getting around in November
- The November 5 strike: all four main rail unions have called a walkout for Thursday, November 5, part of a cross-sector strike day, so expect cancelled TGV, Intercités, TER and some RER trains. As of late October, no notice had been filed for the Paris Métro, and unions were due to meet SNCF management on November 3, so the call could still change. SNCF publishes the reduced timetable around 5 p.m. the evening before. Avoid long train trips and tight train-to-flight connections that day. Marches are likely too; see safety for the protest situation and the State Department's Level 2 advisory.
- Clock change: the US falls back on Sunday, November 1, 2026, so from then on Paris is 6 hours ahead of New York and 9 ahead of Los Angeles.
- Winter tires: from November 1, 2026 to March 31, 2027, cars in designated mountain areas of 34 départements must carry chains or snow socks or have winter tires. Ask your rental company in writing. See driving.
- Leaving Paris for Normandy by car: from November 16, 2026, the A13's Saint-Cloud tunnel is closed in the Paris-to-Normandy direction until the end of August 2027, with signed detours. Take the train to Caen or Bayeux and rent there instead.
- Paris tickets: paper Métro tickets work only until December 15, 2026, and not on buses or trams. Use a Navigo Easy card or the app. See getting around Paris.
Bottom line
Come in November if you want Paris without lines, love food and wine, travel on a budget, or want to see the Christmas season start before December's crowds and prices.
Pick another month if you want sunshine, swimming, hiking or skiing, or if short, gray days get you down. For skiing and the full Christmas markets, read France in December; for the cheapest, quietest trip of the year, read France in January. When you have your dates, follow the planning timeline.
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